Table of Contents
Saponification
Fatty Acid Profiles
LAURIC ACID (dodecanoic acid)
Lauric acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in various vegetable fats, particularly in coconut oil and palm kernel oil. In soapmaking, lauric acid is a significant component, and oils high in lauric acid contribute specific properties to the soap. Here are key points about lauric acid and its role in soapmaking:
- Source of Lauric Acid: Lauric acid is abundantly present in oils such as coconut oil and palm kernel oil. These oils are popular choices in soapmaking due to their high lauric acid content.
- Soap Properties: Lauric acid is known for its cleansing and lathering properties. Soaps made with oils high in lauric acid tend to produce a rich and fluffy lather that effectively removes dirt and oils from the skin.
- Hardness and Stability: Soaps made with oils high in lauric acid, such as coconut oil, contribute to the hardness and stability of the soap bar. The resulting soap is often solid and long-lasting.
- Temperature Sensitivity: Lauric acid has a higher melting point compared to other fatty acids. As a result, soaps with a significant amount of lauric acid may become harder in cooler temperatures and soften in warmer temperatures.
- Challenges with High Concentrations: While lauric acid contributes desirable properties to soap, using high concentrations of oils rich in lauric acid can lead to a soap that is too harsh or drying on the skin. It is common for soapmakers to balance oils with different fatty acid profiles to achieve a soap that cleanses effectively without being overly harsh.
- Coconut Oil in Soapmaking: Coconut oil is a popular choice for soapmakers because it contains a high percentage of lauric acid. It contributes to a bubbly lather and helps create a hard bar of soap. However, using high percentages of coconut oil in a soap recipe can lead to a soap that is too cleansing and may strip the skin of natural oils
- Blending with Other Oils: Soapmakers often formulate recipes that include a variety of oils to balance the fatty acid composition. For instance, combining oils high in lauric acid with oils high in other fatty acids, such as oleic acid (found in olive oil) or palmitic acid (found in palm oil), helps create a well-rounded soap with desirable cleansing, moisturizing, and lathering properties. The average percentage of lauric acid in the favorite soap recipes of soapmakers polled rounds in at 15%. Most recipes clocked in at 7% to 20% lauric acid, but there were a few outliers with much higher percentages of lauric.
Chemical Safety 
MYRISTIC ACID (hexadecanoic acid)
Myristic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in some natural fats and oils, including coconut oil, palm oil, and nutmeg butter. In soapmaking, myristic acid plays a role in determining the properties of the soap. Here are key points about myristic acid and its role in soapmaking:
- Source of Myristic Acid: Myristic acid is naturally present in various oils, but it is particularly abundant in coconut oil and palm oil. Both of these oils are commonly used in soapmaking due to their unique fatty acid profiles.
- Soap Properties: Myristic acid contributes to the hardness, cleansing, and lathering properties of soap. Soaps made with oils high in myristic acid produce a creamy lather and have good cleansing abilities, making them effective for removing dirt and oils from the skin.
- Hardness and Stability: Soaps made with oils high in myristic acid contribute to the hardness and stability of the soap bar. This helps create a solid and long-lasting soap.
- Lathering Ability: Myristic acid is known for its ability to produce a fluffy and stable lather. Soaps containing a significant amount of myristic acid tend to generate a rich lather that enhances the overall cleansing experience.
- Temperature Sensitivity: Similar to lauric acid, myristic acid has a higher melting point compared to some other fatty acids. This can affect the soap’s texture in different temperatures, with the soap becoming harder in cooler conditions and softer in warmer conditions.
- Balancing Act: While myristic acid contributes desirable properties to soap, it is often used in conjunction with other oils to balance the soap’s characteristics. Formulating a soap recipe involves considering the fatty acid profiles of various oils to achieve a well-rounded soap with cleansing, moisturizing, and lathering properties.
- Common Use in Shaving Soaps: Myristic acid is often included in soap recipes for shaving soaps. The combination of myristic acid with other fatty acids contributes to a stable lather that provides a smooth and comfortable shaving experience.
- Soap Recipes: Popular soap recipes, such as traditional laundry soap or shaving soap, often include oils high in myristic acid for their cleansing and lathering properties.
Chemical Safety
OLEIC ACID (cis-9-octadecenoic acid)
Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid, meaning it has one double bond in its carbon chain. It is commonly found in various vegetable oils, with olive oil being one of the most notable sources. Oleic acid contributes specific characteristics to soap when used in soapmaking. Here are key points about oleic acid and its role in soapmaking:
- Source of Oleic Acid: Olive oil is a primary source of oleic acid, containing a high percentage of this monounsaturated fatty acid. Other oils, such as avocado oil, almond oil, and high-oleic varieties of sunflower and safflower oils, also contain significant amounts of oleic acid.
- Soap Properties: Oleic acid contributes to the conditioning and moisturizing properties of soap. Soaps made with oils high in oleic acid are often milder and gentler on the skin. Oleic acid is less prone to causing dryness compared to some other fatty acids.
- Stable Lather: While oleic acid on its own does not contribute to a very bubbly lather, it does contribute to a stable and creamy lather. When combined with other fatty acids, especially those found in coconut oil or palm oil, it helps balance the lathering properties of the soap.
- Soft and Smooth Texture: Soaps high in oleic acid tend to have a soft and smooth texture. This characteristic makes them suitable for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as they can provide a moisturizing effect.
- Slower to Trace: Oleic acid slows down the trace (the point at which the soap mixture thickens) during the soapmaking process. This can be beneficial for intricate soap designs or when a soapmaker prefers more time to work with the soap batter before it solidifies.
- Soap Formulation: Soapmakers often include oils high in oleic acid in their soap formulations to create a well-balanced bar that is both cleansing and moisturizing. The combination of oleic acid with other fatty acids, such as palmitic acid and stearic acid, contributes to a soap with a desirable texture and performance.
- Rancidity: Oleic acid has a better resistance to rancidity compared to polyunsaturated fatty acids. Soaps made with oils high in oleic acid tend to have a longer shelf life.
- Recommended Usage: While oleic acid is beneficial for the skin, soap formulations usually include a variety of oils to achieve a balanced fatty acid profile. Excessive use of high-oleic oils without a balance of other oils may result in a soap that is too soft and lacks lather.
Chemical Safety 
PALMITIC ACID (hexadecanoic acid)
Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid that plays a significant role in soapmaking. It is commonly found in various oils and fats, including palm oil and tallow. Here are key points about palmitic acid and its impact on soapmaking:
- Source of Palmitic Acid: Palmitic acid is abundantly present in certain animal fats, such as tallow, as well as in vegetable oils like palm oil. It is one of the most common saturated fatty acids found in natural fats and oils.
- Soap Properties: Palmitic acid contributes to the hardness and stability of soap. Soaps made with oils high in palmitic acid result in bars that are firm and long-lasting.
- Cleansing Properties: Palmitic acid provides cleansing properties to soap. While it is not as harsh as some shorter-chain saturated fatty acids, it contributes to the overall cleaning ability of the soap.
- Stable Lather: Soaps made with oils high in palmitic acid produce a stable and creamy lather. The combination of palmitic acid with other fatty acids contributes to a well-balanced lathering experience.
- Texture and Feel: Soaps with a higher percentage of palmitic acid often have a smooth and creamy texture. This contributes to a pleasant feel during use.
- Soap Hardness: Palmitic acid contributes to the hardness of the soap bar. Soaps with a significant amount of palmitic acid are generally solid and do not dissolve quickly in water.
- Temperature Stability: Palmitic acid contributes to the temperature stability of the soap. It remains solid at room temperature and doesn’t soften too much in warmer conditions.
- Soap Formulation: Soapmakers often use oils high in palmitic acid, such as palm oil, to create hard and stable soap bars. The combination of palmitic acid with other fatty acids, including oleic acid and stearic acid, helps achieve a balanced soap with desirable characteristics.
- Sustainability Considerations: The use of palm oil in soapmaking, which contains a significant amount of palmitic acid, has raised environmental and sustainability concerns due to deforestation and habitat destruction. Some soapmakers choose to use sustainably sourced palm oil or opt for alternative oils to address these issues.
It’s important for soapmakers to carefully formulate their recipes, balancing different fatty acids to achieve the desired soap characteristics. While palmitic acid contributes to soap hardness and stability, a well-rounded soap often includes a variety of oils to achieve a balanced combination of cleansing, moisturizing, and lathering properties.
Chemical Safety
LINOLEIC ACID ((9Z,12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid)
Linoleic acid is a polyunsaturated fatty acid with two double bonds in its carbon chain. It is commonly found in various vegetable oils, such as safflower oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, and corn oil. Here are key points about linoleic acid and its role in soapmaking:
- Source of Linoleic Acid: Linoleic acid is abundant in oils derived from seeds and nuts. Common sources include safflower oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, and corn oil.
- Soap Properties: Soaps made with oils high in linoleic acid tend to be conditioning and moisturizing. Linoleic acid contributes to the overall skin-loving properties of the soap.
- Moisturizing Properties: Linoleic acid is known for its ability to nourish and moisturize the skin. Soaps with a higher percentage of linoleic acid are often recommended for individuals with dry or sensitive skin.
- Skin Barrier Support: Linoleic acid plays a role in supporting the skin barrier function. It is an essential fatty acid, meaning the body cannot produce it and must obtain it from external sources. Including linoleic acid in soap formulations can contribute to the health of the skin barrier.
- Unsaponifiables: Linoleic acid is part of the unsaponifiable fraction of oils, which means it does not fully react with sodium hydroxide during the soapmaking process. This portion of the oil remains in the soap and contributes to its moisturizing properties.
- Softening and Conditioning: Soaps high in linoleic acid often have a softening and conditioning effect on the skin. They can leave the skin feeling supple and hydrated.
- Lathering Properties: While linoleic acid contributes to the conditioning properties of soap, it is not a significant contributor to lathering. Soap formulations often include a balance of various fatty acids to achieve both conditioning and lathering properties.
- Susceptibility to Oxidation: Linoleic acid is more susceptible to oxidation compared to saturated fatty acids. Soap formulations high in linoleic acid may benefit from the addition of antioxidants to improve the stability of the soap.
- Soap Formulation: Soapmakers often include oils high in linoleic acid in their formulations to create well-balanced soaps with moisturizing properties. Combining linoleic acid with other fatty acids, such as oleic acid and stearic acid, helps achieve a soap with desirable characteristics.
It’s important for soapmakers to consider the overall fatty acid profile of their soap formulations to achieve a balance of cleansing, moisturizing, and lathering properties. Linoleic acid is valued for its contributions to the skin-conditioning aspect of soap.
RICINOLEIC ACID ((9Z,12R)-12-hydroxyoctadec-9-enoic acid)
Ricinoleic acid is a unique fatty acid that is present in large quantities in castor oil. It is a monounsaturated fatty acid with an 18-carbon chain and a hydroxyl functional group (-OH) at the 12th carbon position. Here are key points about ricinoleic acid and its role in soapmaking:
- Source of Ricinoleic Acid: Ricinoleic acid is predominantly found in castor oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the castor bean plant (Ricinus communis). Castor oil is unique among vegetable oils due to its high ricinoleic acid content.
- Soap Properties: Soaps made with castor oil, rich in ricinoleic acid, have distinct properties. Ricinoleic acid contributes to a creamy lather and helps enhance the soap’s conditioning and moisturizing characteristics.
- Lathering Properties: Ricinoleic acid has a unique ability to boost lather formation in soap. Soaps containing castor oil tend to produce a stable and bubbly lather, contributing to a pleasant washing experience.
- Moisturizing and Conditioning: Ricinoleic acid is known for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. Soaps with castor oil can leave the skin feeling soft and hydrated, making them suitable for formulations intended to support dry or sensitive skin.
- Hydrophilic Nature: The hydroxyl functional group in ricinoleic acid gives it a hydrophilic (water-attracting) nature. This property contributes to the soap’s ability to emulsify oils and enhance cleansing.
- Slower Trace: Castor oil, with its high ricinoleic acid content, can slow down the trace during the soapmaking process. This characteristic is beneficial for soapmakers who want more time to work with the soap batter, especially when creating intricate designs.
- Humectant Properties: Ricinoleic acid exhibits humectant properties, meaning it can attract and retain moisture. This can contribute to the soap’s ability to maintain skin hydration.
- Usage in Soap Formulation: While castor oil is valued in soapmaking for its unique properties, it is often used in smaller percentages in soap formulations. Using too much castor oil can lead to a soft bar that takes longer to cure.
- Complementary Use: Soapmakers commonly include castor oil in formulations along with other oils to create a well-balanced soap. Combining castor oil with oils high in oleic acid (e.g., olive oil) and oils high in lauric or stearic acid (e.g., coconut oil or palm oil) helps achieve a soap with desirable cleansing, moisturizing, and lathering properties.
Ricinoleic acid’s distinctive properties make castor oil a valuable ingredient in soapmaking, particularly for enhancing lather and providing conditioning benefits to the skin. However, it’s important to use castor oil judiciously in soap formulations to avoid potential issues with softness in the final soap bars.
Chemical Safety
Laboratory Chemical Safety Summary (LCSS) Datasheet
STEARIC ACID (octadecanoic acid)
Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in various natural fats and oils. It plays a significant role in soapmaking and contributes specific characteristics to the soap. Here are key points about stearic acid and its impact on soapmaking:
- Source of Stearic Acid: Stearic acid is abundant in fats and oils derived from both plant and animal sources. Common sources include animal fats like tallow and vegetable oils such as palm oil and shea butter.
- Soap Properties: Stearic acid contributes to the hardness and stability of soap. Soaps made with oils high in stearic acid result in firm and long-lasting bars.
- Creamy Lather: Soaps containing stearic acid contribute to a creamy and stable lather. The combination of stearic acid with other fatty acids enhances the soap’s overall lathering properties.
- Emollient and Conditioning: Stearic acid has emollient properties, contributing to the soap’s ability to soften and condition the skin. Soaps high in stearic acid can leave the skin feeling moisturized.
- Temperature Stability: Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that remains solid at room temperature. This property contributes to the stability of the soap bar, preventing it from melting too quickly.
- Soap Hardness: Stearic acid is a major contributor to the hardness of soap. Soaps with a high percentage of stearic acid are generally solid and have a substantial feel.
- Candle Making: Stearic acid is not only used in soapmaking but is also a common ingredient in candle making. It helps harden candles, reduce dripping, and enhance burn time.
- Soap Formulation: Soapmakers often include oils high in stearic acid, such as palm oil or shea butter, in their formulations to create hard and stable soap bars. The combination of stearic acid with other fatty acids, including oleic acid and palmitic acid, helps achieve a balanced soap with desirable characteristics.
- Balancing Fatty Acids: Soap formulations often involve balancing various fatty acids to achieve a soap with a well-rounded combination of cleansing, moisturizing, and lathering properties. Stearic acid is typically used in combination with other fatty acids to achieve a balanced soap.
It’s essential for soapmakers to carefully consider the fatty acid profile of their soap formulations to achieve the desired characteristics. While stearic acid contributes to soap hardness and stability, a diverse range of oils is often used to create soaps with a balanced and appealing performance.
Chemical Safety
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